Describe and Explain Factors Influencing Coastal Processes
In this essay I aim to describe and explain factors affecting coastal processes. I will focus and explore how waves, tides, winds and mass movement processes can change the form of the coasts within our lifetime. The three key questions I will focus on are:
* What are the energy and sediment inputs into the coastal system?
* What are the processes that erode coasts?
* How is sediment transported and deposited?
I will conclude by describing and explaining factors influencing coastal processes and how they make up the South Dorset coast.
The littoral zone is a narrow zone between high and low water zones where energy and sediment concentrate. The sediments on the coast are sand, shingle and clay. The river, cliffs and sea are sources of sediment inputs into the coastal system. (Fig. 1)
(Fig 1. Sediment inputs into the coastal system.)
The energy inputs include wind, waves and tidal currents. The wind produces sand dunes on beaches with shallow offshore gradients; these produce ecosystems, which help with plants that cope with lack of nutrients and water etc. Sand dunes help absorb the pounding of high waves and reduce over wash flooding in storms. Below is a diagram of Studland Dunes and beach, showing the different parts of the beach (Fig. 2)
Fig. 2 Studland dunes and beach
Winds create waves that ripple across the surface of lakes and seas until they break on the shallowing bottom and crash into the shore. In many areas, prevailing winds produce waves that consistently approach the coast at oblique angles. Even the slightest angle between the land and the waves will create currents that transport sediment along the shore. These longshore currents are a primary agent of coastal movement; they are a major cause of sand migration along barrier and mainland beaches. (Fig 3)
In this essay I aim to describe and explain factors affecting coastal processes. I will focus and explore how waves, tides, winds and mass movement processes can change the form of the coasts within our lifetime. The three key questions I will focus on are:
* What are the energy and sediment inputs into the coastal system?
* What are the processes that erode coasts?
* How is sediment transported and deposited?
I will conclude by describing and explaining factors influencing coastal processes and how they make up the South Dorset coast.
The littoral zone is a narrow zone between high and low water zones where energy and sediment concentrate. The sediments on the coast are sand, shingle and clay. The river, cliffs and sea are sources of sediment inputs into the coastal system. (Fig. 1)
(Fig 1. Sediment inputs into the coastal system.)
The energy inputs include wind, waves and tidal currents. The wind produces sand dunes on beaches with shallow offshore gradients; these produce ecosystems, which help with plants that cope with lack of nutrients and water etc. Sand dunes help absorb the pounding of high waves and reduce over wash flooding in storms. Below is a diagram of Studland Dunes and beach, showing the different parts of the beach (Fig. 2)
Fig. 2 Studland dunes and beach
Winds create waves that ripple across the surface of lakes and seas until they break on the shallowing bottom and crash into the shore. In many areas, prevailing winds produce waves that consistently approach the coast at oblique angles. Even the slightest angle between the land and the waves will create currents that transport sediment along the shore. These longshore currents are a primary agent of coastal movement; they are a major cause of sand migration along barrier and mainland beaches. (Fig 3)
