3.2 These designs will be ready for the next stage of development, which will be the development of the patterns. This will be carried out by our designer, who will transform the basic ideas, into patterns. The patterns will be laid out on calico and cut out in preparation to be sewn either by designer or our sample machinist. When the designs are sewn, they will become the initial samples which, the designer will use to judge the viability of the design and the accuracy of the pattern. If the designs and patterns are satisfactory, a decision will be made, on whether there are to be mass produced.
3.3 The fabric is sourced and chosen according to its fibre properties and structure being able to conform to, and withstand the garments required usage. The designer will order sample lengths of this fabric and produce a batch of original samples. A working drawing is developed identifying all the materials which will be needed to produce the garment. The total manufacturing cost of each design is then determined and given an individual price.
From the original samples the designer will be able to determine the amount of fabric which was used for each garment, and calculate the required amount of fabric is ordered and a copy of the order form and working drawings is passed down to the cutting room with the patterns and original samples.
The fabric we have chosen to use in the manufacture of our protective clothing is white polyester/cotton drill. It is a combination of natural and man-made fibres, possessing the qualities and advantages of both fibres making it perfect for the intended usage of our protective clothing range.
4.0 THE CUTTING AREA
4.1 When the patterns, working drawings and original samples are passed down to the cutting room, it will be the responsibility of our cutter to develop the lay plan. Due to the relatively small size of our company, this will be done manually. The cutter will place the pattern pieces onto the cloth, so that all the pattern pieces are arranged close together in a way to minimise cloth wastage and optimise usage. After the pattern pieces are arranged onto the cloth, our cutter will mark around the pattern pieces with tailors chalk or marking pencil, transferring the markings onto the cloth, this forms the first lay. Our cutter will proceed to cut around the pattern pieces using an industrial cutting knife, cutting as close as possible to the chalk line to maintain accuracy in garment size. All pattern marking for example, pocket markings and side seams balance marks, are transferred through the layers of cloth using notching equipment and drill holes.
After the garments are cut the pieces will be separated and bungled into garment sizes and garment sections with docket tickets. These are transported to the production area.
5.0 PRODUCTION AREA
5.1 Once the garments are in the cutting area, it will be the responsibility of our production manager to organise and manage how the cut parts are put together, to form a complete garment. This will occur in a pre-designed production line defining exactly what is done at each stage of the manufacturing process and by whom.
5.2 Every production operation will go through the process of garment engineering; the process of time and motion studies will be applied to each garment section, to determine the average time, it would take to sew each individual part together, attaching a cost to each section. The overall manufacturing cost of each garment will be calculated by adding up the cost of producing each individual part.
In the production room, handling, accounts for the majority of the production cost, therefore it will be the responsibility of our production manager to minimise handling time by determing the optimal methods for pick up, positioning and disposal for each individual garment parts and developing effective transporting systems within the production area.
5.3 The machinist that we employ will be highly skilled with the capacity to make complete garments as well as being able to do sectional work.
5.4 In ensure quality within the manufacturing process and the best possible results are achieved in the end product. It is important that the right industrial sewing machinery is chosen for each stage of the garment construction. The machines must fulfil functional requirements in the construction of the garment and the results must be visually pleasing to the eye. One of the machines that will be required for the production of our protective clothing designs will be flat bed locksmith machines with under-bed trimmers. These are primarily used to join the cloth pieces together, creating seams to form the overall shape of the garments, automatically trimming the threads at the end of each operation. This machine can also be used to neaten and conceal raw edges by creating hem and insert zips. The five and three thread overlockers are looping stitch machines which are used to conceal raw edges on a garment by creating a closely knitted covering stitch over frayed edges, the five thread overlocker also joins garments together while concealing the edges. These two machines will be used to construct the garment, while the buttonholer and button sewing machines, which as the names suggest are finishing machines, only creates button holes and attach buttons as fasteners to the finish garments. The amount of machines and ratios of machine will be dependant on the size of our business operation.
6.0 THE QUALITY CONTROL AREA
6.1 When garments are completed, they are taken to the quality control area, were the garments will be checked for manufacturing error and to ensure that all thread are trimmed and the garment looks neat in appearance. If there is a manufacturing fault the garment is returned to the production area, if not it is sent to be pressed.
7.0 THE PRESSING AREA
7.1 Pressing is an important factor in the production of garments, a badly sewn garment, can be made to look good if pressed correctly, whereas a well made garment can be made to look bad if it is not pressed properly. In this area all garments are pressed using a variety of presses.
The industrial presses that we will be required for the finishing of our protective clothing will be hand presses.
The final operation that will take place in this area will be the hanging and bagging of the garments ready for despatching. Hanging is done manually by an operative, while the bagging will be done automatically using a machine.
7.2 So it is vital for all of these areas and machinery to be in a suitable premise with enough space to make a safe environment and the best product.
8.0 PREMISES
8.1 They are many factors that will influence and determine our choice of premises; that is required for carrying out our manufacturing process.
8.11 The size: must be appropriate to facilitate for all our production functions and
equipment.
8.12 Suitability: should preferable be located in an industrial complex, offering
easy rail and road connections.
8.13 Location: clearly sign posted, positioned for easy access to the motorway, easy
rail and road connections.
9.0 RECOMMENDATIONS
9.11 That subject to further research and the development of a sound business proposal
presented to the Youth Manufacturing Initiative, that the board should consider
supporting our application for start up capital to assist us in the establishment of
our small business.
9.12 On completion of our business proposal the YMI should present us with the earliest
opportunity to make representation.
9.13 We will take action to develop more effective business and managements skills.
10.0 CONCLUSION
10.1 We fulfil all the requirements stipulated by the board of the YMI, we are young granulates, with the knowledge, skills and experience, with a clear understanding of the manufacturing processes which are required in establishment of a small clothing business in our chosen area of protective clothing. We possess drive and ambition to succeed. For these reasons we think that we are prime candidates to receive capital assistance from the YMI scheme.
11.0 BIBLIOGRAPHY
Abling, B. (2001) Fashion Sketch book, London
Cooklin, G. (1998) Garment Technology for the Fashion Industry London
Shoben, M. and Ward, J. (2003) Pattern Cutting and Making up volume 2
Seaman, J. (1995) Foundation in Fashion Design, Liverpool
http//www.keynote.co.uk/ 16/07/2004, 21/07/2004
