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Beach description

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It was an early morning when Samuel walked down to Bondi Beach to catch some waves. As he stepped on the blistering white sand he could hear the enormous sky-blue waves crash hard on the nearby rocks, over and over again. He bent down, picked up a handful of sand and watched it rapidly run through his fingers like the passing of time. He slowly trotted to towards the shore clutching his redback surfboard in his right hand. As the thunderous waves crashed the white bubbly crystal clear long-shore drift continued to his pasty legs. ...read more.


In the distance he could see something brewing up as if a chemical reaction was taking place. He turned his body, took a deep breath and slowly started to paddle the opposite way hoping to get the timing right. He looked back every second to make sure his calculations were right and that he didn't miss interpret the wave. He started to paddle faster as he saw the colossal wave start to catch up to him. It was as if it had large machine-like legs sprinting to catch up to him. ...read more.


Freedom! He thought to himself. He angled his board to that direction closed his eyes and hoped for the best. It seemed like hours had slowly gone by, but in reality it had only been minutes. He popped his head up, squinting his eyes as he was blinded by the amount of sunlight that poured in. he had been crushed by that wave and slowly, he drifted back to shore. The warm water was now hitting against his body as he lay on the moist sand. Now he was able to brag to his friends on how he had attempted to catch a 6FT wave but in the end caught an easy ride back to the shore. ...read more.

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