Me: Before, you stated that, “analysing after a climb is as important as being fit or talented”. Joe, you are Simon’s climbing partner who nearly lost your own life because of Simon’s decision to cut the rope. Analysing the situation, how do you feel about his action that nearly cost your life?
Joe: I guess I would have done the same. How could you expect Simon to know that I was hanging in mid-air still alive and well? Everyone should put themselves in Simon’s shoes. He was in a situation no better than me! I was a huge burden to him and we both would be dead if he continued to hang on that rope. The choice made was a right one, or else we both would not have live to tell the tale.
Me: Many have argued that Simon’s choice of cutting the rope was wrong. In your book, you have written, “On reflection, … it would probably have done more harm than good to have tried…”. What if, he really persisted and didn’t cut the rope? Joe?
Joe: To be honest, we would have died. I was already in a dreadful situation with frostbitten hands and a broken leg. I tied one end of the Prusik but my hands were already too cold to continue. With such disabilities, I was unable to travel upwards. Therefore, my chance of survival was minimal. At that moment, I thought that cutting or not cutting the rope would not have made such a big difference. However, arriving at basecamp, I changed my mind. Cutting the rope, actually increased my chance of survival! Considering Simon’s situation, …
Simon: (interrupts)
Truthfully saying, I was in the cold with no water, food or anything that could be used to regain some energy. If I did not cut the rope, I would have frozen and technically suffered from severe hypothermia. Therefore, we both think that cutting the rope was a more logical choice and could have at least ensured one of our survival.
Me: We can see a heated discussion here! Joe, If your climbing partner were an immediate family member e.g. siblings, parents, would you have done the same? Or will you be approaching the problem differently?
Simon:
First, let me clarify that it is important to make sacrifices to obtain progress. So, I will selfishly say that the choice will actually be the same.
(audience disagrees)
Without cutting the rope, both of us would have died. If you had a choice, would you choose to lose both climbers or just one? A decision had to be made.
Me: Well-answered! Joe, we see some disapproval against Simon’s arguments. In reality, how do you feel and react to external criticism that is directed to Simon?
Joe: During the way down on my own, I felt extremely lonely, sad and was about to give up. Furious with Simon, I actually reacted the same way like many people out there, blaming Simon’s action. However, back at the base camp when I understood the series of unfortunate events and the misconception that I was…dead, I said to Joe, “You did right!” Even after all these years, I defend Simon from all arguments out there. I tell everyone that Simon had done the right thing.
Me: But how do you feel, Joe?
Joe: Honestly, I feel sorry for Simon having to face so many negative criticisms from people who pass judgement on him without experiencing the horrifying situation that we went through.
Me: Diverting the subject, Simon, you told Joe that the biggest possible mistake was because of lack of gas in Joe’s book. Was there any other factor that may have caused the disaster?
Simon: Thinking back, not really. It was all due to insufficient gas. If we had enough gas, we would have dug a snow hole, rested there for a night to avoid the snow storm, allowing a peaceful decent.
Me: Simon, consider the fact if the weather did not turn good the other day, will gas be the only factor?
Simon: You should know that meteorological conditions cannot be exactly predicted. I will admit that a bit of luck was needed.
Me: Joe, as Simon stated that gas was insufficient, how will you balance between bringing more gas and carrying heavier bags?
Joe: Judging on the difficulty, length of time and the weather, I will definitely bring a reasonable amount of canisters. As a matter of fact, we both hadn’t expected the situation to be that bad, therefore, we didn’t bring what we should have brought. That is the real danger of Alpine Style climbing. If you didn't bring enough, you will need to continue climbing and bear the harshness.
Me: Reasonable and Logical! Lastly, let us enjoy the trailer of Touching the Void, which will be released in theatres soon.
Remember to look out for the movie! Thank you very much, Joe and Simon. Ladies and Gentlemen, thank you very much for joining us in Brian’s Hardtalk show. Catch us next week on the BBC Radio for more.
