The clock has two dials called the astronomical and the calendar dials. The astronomical dial is the top dial, and shows the phases of the moon, the equinoxes, the season, the day, and numerous Christian holidays, that to this day are all exact. The calendar dial is the bottom dial, which includes a cycle of 12 medallions of the months and pictures of each sign of the zodiac. The only thing I find strange, is despite all of the extra information, the clock fails to tell the simple time of day.
After exhausting the views of the tower, I decided to move on to a different part of Prague.
I now found myself in the modern part of the city, the New Town. It is the least impressive part of Prague I’ve seen, due to the masses of shops, cafes, cinemas, fast food outlets and hotels. However I was quite fascinated to see a giant statue of a man upon a horse. I politely asked a local in my best Czech accent, “Dobrý den, Mluvite anglicky?” Meaning ‘Hello, do you speak English?’ Surprisingly, my ‘well pronounced’ Czech didn’t sound as good as I thought I would. Fortunately, after many attempts, he finally understood my frantic waves and the repetition of the word ‘where?’ I was right in the heart of the New Town, Wenceslas Square.
Since there was little out of the ordinary to take a look at, I decided to find a traditional Prague restaurant and try out some local delicacies. I headed to the first authentic looking Czech bar, which was called Baráčnická Rychta. It was a large beer hall, with a live band playing. As it looked quite welcoming, I decided to stay. First, I thought I would wet my whistle with some traditional ‘Becherova’ the most common alcoholic beverage in Prague. Well, let me tell you, even the smallest of sips would make your throat burn and your eyes water. It was absolutely awful. I don’t understand how people around me were drinking it like water, because my face screwed up so much my head hurt. Although after a few shots my head began to feel surprisingly lighter and the alcohol didn’t taste as strong. Since I had settled in quite nicely at Baráčnická Rychta, I thought it was time to try out the food aswell. Looking at the menu, I realized that saying the Czechs enjoy a hearty, filling meal would perhaps be an understatement. As I tried to find a lighter dish, I found myself surrounded by a world of waist-enhancing bread dumplings, rich butter sauces, cream, eggs and animal fats. Although this may sound a little overfacing, Czech food is actually very tasty. Needless to say, Prague doesn’t really cater for vegetarians. After all, any nation that offers dumplings for pudding as well as main course is very likely to be meat orientated, and the Czech Republic is no exception. Infact, in Prague, vegetarianism is seen more like an ailment than a way of life, so most vegetarians miss out on the Czechs cuisine experience. I finally chose for starters, ‘Česká cibulová polévka’ which was Czech onion soup. As my starter wasn’t particularly adventurous, for main course, I chose ‘Kachna’ which consisted of roast duck, roast and smoked neck of pork, veal sausage, dumplings and cabbage.
The onion soup was fine, although you can’t really go that wrong with such a simple dish. However the main course, Kachna, served on a gigantic platter, was fantastic, and to my surprise I finished the whole dish. I then asked the waiter for the bill. In Prague, asking for the bill is the worst part of eating out, especially if you are a tourist. Most waiters and waitresses are known to add on a ‘tipping’charge without even notifying you, and be careful, if you don’t ask for your change, it is unlikely you will get it back. Sometimes they will even add on an extra 23% surcharge onto your bill.
After stuffing myself with countless carbohydrates, I decided to head back to my hotel. After my last experience in a Czech taxi, I thought it best to ring a taxi company. Many tourists fall into the trap of catching a taxi on the street, resulting in overpriced fares, as Czech taxi drivers are notorious for ripping off tourists. It is best to get a rough quote from the taxi companies on how much it would be on the phone so, when you do arrive at your destination, you’ll know straight away whether the fee is acceptable.
As Prague castle is on the other side of the Vltava River, I decided to make my visit there a day trip. This is probably the best idea, because the castle has many different parts to look at, so you don’t want to be pushed for time. I suggest you set off early, and probably arrive home late. There are a variety of ways to get there, as Prague has a array of transport. I think the best way to get around is on foot, with the help of cheap, widespread public transport. There is plenty of information available, including transport maps, schedules and directions at information offices located all around the city. However, you may want to get around by car. This should be avoided by people with a short temper, as your road rage will spin out of control. Not only are the streets over laden with traffic, you will also have to endure the parking, trams, pedestrian zones, cyclists and police looking for tourists to pick on. Despite all the hold-ups, at least you can travel by your own schedule, as apposed to the city’s timetables. If you are a keen cyclist, maybe you should leave your bikes at home, because the streets are often flooded with traffic, and there are no bicycle lanes in Prague. There are also many ways to cross the river Vltava, which runs straight through the middle of Prague, You could cross by the famous Charles Bridge and observe more of the Czech history. On the other hand, you could cruise across the river in a luxury ship. My preferred choice would be to cross via the bridge as you can go on foot, and meet up with other enthusiastic tourists.
Before I was to visit the Prague Castle, I decided to visit the Lesser Town and the Jewish Quarter, known as Josefov. The Jewish Quarter has a number of important visitor sights, all of which can be accessed by purchasing a central ticket. This part of the city is hardly touched by modern progress. Like most of Prague, the best way to enjoy it is by simply wandering around and taking in the sights. The Old Jewish Cemetery contains over 12,000 gravestones, crammed shoulder to shoulder, although it is estimated that the number of dead buried in here is nearer to 100,000, as the bodies in the cemetery are buried up to 12 layers deep. The oldest grave that is marked with a plaque is that of Rabbi Kara, which dates back to 1439.
It is in Prague's Jewish Quarter that the legend of the Golem originates. The Golem was supposedly created from clay by Rabbi Low, in the 16th century. He brought the creature to life for it to be his servant, but eventually the Golem went crazy and the Rabbi had to undo his sorcery. The legend says that the remains of the Golem are hidden in the rafters of the Old-New Synagogue.
The final historic architectural building I was to see in Prague was the Hradcany, or Prague Castle. A ‘castle’ isn’t exactly what it is, it is more like a walled citadel containing a Palace, three churches, and a monastery. It is said to be the best historical site in Prague, which is why I saved it till last. Prague Castle is the most popular site visited in Prague. It is the largest ancient castle in the world and was constructed in the 9th century by Prince Booivoj, the castle transformed itself from a wooden fortress surrounded by a high wall to one of the most historical castles in Europe. It has a mix of styles, as different rulers have contributed to it final appearance, but it keeps its classical features from the 18th century throughout.
The centrepiece of Hradcany is the gigantic St Vitus's Cathedral, home to the tomb of "Good" King Wenceslas. Taking nearly 6 centuries to build, the cathedral is a spectacular example of the Czech architecture. The cathedral contains underground tombs of Czech kings, and has an incredible interior aswell as a breathtaking outer view. Within St Vitus's Cathedral is the spectacular stained-glass window designed by the Alfons Mucha, a 20th-century artist. It is said St. Vitus himself is buried behind the altar, along with St Wenceslas, who constructed the original church on the site.
St George's Basilica, also within Hradcany, dates back to the 10th century, although much of it has been rebuilt. Only the foundations of the building, founded about 920 by Prince Vratislav I, have been preserved. When the convent for Benedictine nuns was founded in 973 the church was enlarged and reconstructed. The present Romanesque appearance of the church with an apse and two steeples dates from the time of the reconstruction carried out after the fire which occurred in 1142. Bohemia's first female Christian martyr, St Ludmilla, is buried here. Her martyrdom came about when she was strangled from behind as she knelt in prayer.
The picturesque Golden Lane, a narrow street lined with tiny, low houses originally built in the 1500s to house the castle guards, is another must-see in Hradcany. Most of the houses are now shops, selling arts, crafts, books and souvenirs. The house at No 22 was once home to the great writer Franz Kafka, and is now a souvenir shop in his honour.
Outside the Castle perimeter, but still within the Hradcany area, is The Loreto, an important place of pilgrimage for Christians from around the globe. The main feature of The Loreto is the Santa Casa, a copy of the house believed to be the Virgin Mary's. Constructed in 1661, and dazzling with solid silver decoration, the Santa Casa is a breathtaking sight.
Upstairs in The Loreto is the Loreto Treasury, which is accessed through the kind of door usually reserved for bank vaults. It is easy to see why. The treasures in here, mainly dating from the 16th-18th centuries, are all housed behind thick glass, and protected by hi-tech laser security, such is their value. You can only gaze in wonder at the displays of solid gold and jewel-encrusted religious artifacts.
So, you should get the point by now that there is not much in the way of modernism in Prague. It is a Mecca for those with an eye for history, for architecture, and for culture.
