My Beautician hand book - Basic skincare. How make-up should be applied to different faces.

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My Beautician hand book

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Basic Skincare You Should Know……………………………………….Page 1

        

1. Basic Skincare You Should Know

Basic skincare day routine:

1. Cleanse (morning and evening)

2. Toner

3. Moisturizer

4. Sun protection (prevents any pigmentation from forming).

Weekly routine:

1. Exfoliate (once or twice per week). This ensures that all the dead skin cells are

removed from the surface of your skin and it also improves your skin circulation.

2. Mask (once or twice per week, depending on your skin type and the type of mask.)

Preparing your face for make-up:

1. Wash face with a cleanser depending on your skin type.

2. Tone

3. Put on some eye cream

4. Day moisturizer

5. Make sure your client is comfortable.

6. Put a headband and “bib” on your client so that no make-up spills on her.

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2. Overview of Makeup and Tools a Makeup Artist Need

1. Natural sea sponge

This is difficult to get hold of, comes directly out of the sea.

It is non – absorbent and it’s used to apply foundation.

Wash with cold water only.

2. Latex sponge

This sponge is used to blend already applied foundation.

It is made of absorbent material.

Wash with Soap and water, dry in sun.

3. Powder puff

It is round with the sides stitched and has a band so that your little finger fit

around it.

This is used to apply loose powder onto your face.

Wash with Soap and water, dry in sun.

4. Tweezers

Used to shape eyebrows.

Sterilize with surgical alcohol.

5. Eyebrow curler

Always curl your eyelashes BEFORE you apply mascara, otherwise you will

break your eyelashes.

Sterilize with surgical alcohol.

6. Foundation brush

This brush is used to apply foundation.

Most foundation brushes that you find are flat and the hair has a round shaped

edge.

Other foundation brushes like the ones from MAC are bigger and fuller with a flat

edge.

7. Powder brush

Biggest brush in your kit and all the hair is the same length.

This is only used to remove excess powder after you have applied it with your

powder puff.

Wash with shampoo and conditioner.

8. Blusher brush

This is a smaller version of the powder brush.

Used to blend already applied blush.

Wash with shampoo and conditioner.

9. Contour brush

This is used to apply blush and it fits underneath your cheekbones.

The hair of this brush graduates from short to long.

Wash with shampoo and conditioner.

10. Eye shadow blending brush

It looks like a small broom and all the hair are the same length.

Used only to blend the eye shadow and not for applying it.

Wash with shampoo and conditioner.

11. Eye shadow applicator brush

Smaller version of the contour brush.

It is shaped in a rounded form and fits perfectly in the fold of the eye..

All eye shadow colours can be applied with this brush.

Wash with shampoo and conditioner.

12. Highlighting brush

Bigger version of the eye shadow applicator brush.

It has a rounded shape and is used to apply only highlighter.

Wash with shampoo and conditioner.

13. Eyeliner brush

Very small version of the contour brush.

Used to fill in eyebrows and apply eyeliner.

Wash with shampoo and conditioner.

14. Lipstick brush

All the hair is the same length.

Applying lipstick and lip gloss.

15. Tissues

Used to correct small mistakes, remove excess lipstick from your lips and to clean

brushes in – between clients.

16. Sharpener

It is good to have one with 2 different size holes.

Sharpening of all pencils.

17. Cotton buds

Used to correct any harsh or skew lines and for applying powder underneath eyes.

18. Spatula

This is used for shaping your eyebrows and to remove products from their

containers.

19. Glass

Holds all your brushes neatly together.

20. Headband

Keeps your client’s hair out of her face.

21.” Bib”

Ensures that no make-up spills on your client’s clothes.

22. Hand mirror

So that the client can see what you do.

4. Makeup Brushes That You Need

Overview of Makeup Brushes That You Need:

Foundation brush

This brush is used to apply foundation.

Most foundation brushes that you find are flat and the hair has a round shaped

edge.

Other foundation brushes like the ones from MAC are bigger and fuller with a flat

edge.

Powder brush

Biggest brush in your kit and all the hair is the same length.

This is only used to remove excess powder after you have applied it with your

powder puff.

Blusher brush

This is a smaller version of the powder brush.

Used to blend already applied blush.

Contour brush

This is used to apply blush and it fits underneath your cheekbones.

The hair of this brush graduates from short to long.

Eye shadow blending brush

It looks like a small broom and all the hair are the same length.

Used only to blend the eye shadow and not for applying it.

Eye shadow applicator brush

Smaller version of the contour brush.

It is shaped in a rounded form and fits perfectly in the fold of the eye..

All eye shadow colours can be applied with this brush.

Highlighting brush

Bigger version of the eye shadow applicator brush.

It has a rounded shape and is used to apply only highlighter.

Eyeliner brush

Very small version of the contour brush.

Used to fill in eyebrows and apply eyeliner.

Lipstick brush

All the hair is the same length.

Applying lipstick and lip gloss.

5. How to Sanitize Your Makeup Brushes

Brief Overview:

Natural sea sponge: Wash with cold water only.

Latex sponge: Wash with soap and water, dry in sun.

Powder puff: Wash with soap and water, dry in sun.

Tweezers: Sterilize with surgical alcohol.

Eyebrow curler: Sterilize with surgical alcohol.

Powder brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto

a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally.

Blusher brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto

a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally.

Contour brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto

a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally.

Eye shadow blending brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the

cleanser onto a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry

naturally.

Eye shadow applicator brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of

the cleanser onto a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry

naturally.

Highlighting brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser

onto a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally.

Eyeliner brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto

a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally

Lipstick brush: Clean with MAC brush cleanser. Pour some of the cleanser onto

a cotton wool and wipe it all over your brushes. Leave to dry naturally

Tissues: Used to correct small mistakes, remove excess lipstick from your lips

and to clean brushes in – between clients.

6. How to Shape Your Eyebrows

What you need:

1. Tweezers

2. Tissues

3. Cotton wool

4. Eyebrow brush

5. 1 spatula

6. Lamp

Procedure for perfect eyebrow shaping:

1. Always sterilize your tweezers beforehand.

2. Sterilize the area that needs to be shaped with hibitane.

3. Place one tissue on top of your client’s head.

4. Gently “pull” the area that needs to be shaped. This ensures support.

5. Cool down the area by wiping it with hibitane.

How to do correct eyebrow shaping to compliment your eyes:

1. Basic line – this area can be identified by placing your spatula on the outside corner of your nose and the inside corner of your eye. Any hair that grows in-between that line must be removed.

2. Lengthening line- Place your spatula on the outside corner of your nose, taking it all the way to the outside corner of your eye / eyebrow. This is where the lengthening line must stop.

3. The point where your brow arches- Let your client open her eyes and look in front of her, then place the spatula on the outside of her iris. This is where the brow must arch.

7. How to Tint Your Eyebrows and Eyelashes

Things you need for tinting:

1. 1 small scissor

2. 1 small container for mixing of tint

3. 1 small brush for applying of tint

4. Cotton buds

5. Cotton – wet and dry.

6. Reflectocil tint – brown, black and blue – black

7. Volume 10 peroxide

8. Vaseline

9. Eye drops

Contra – indications:

Any previous history of skin allergies.

Puffy eyes, eyes that are red, eye infections.

Remove contact lenses

Procedure for eyebrow and eyelash tinting:

1. Make sure that all eye make-up is removed.

2. Take some rounded cotton and cut it in half. Take one half and cut out a rounded

shape onto it. These cotton shapes will go underneath your eyelashes.

3. The cotton wool must be thin enough and must be the length of your eye shape.

4. Take a cotton bud and apply Vaseline all around your eyebrows. Make sure that

no Vaseline touches your eyebrows. Also apply some Vaseline onto your eyelid

and underneath your eyes.

5. Choose the correct colour tint according to your client’s needs and mix it with 2

-3 drops of peroxide. Make sure that the paste is even and not clumpy.

6. Apply some tint onto the bottom eyelashes while her eyes are open; then apply it

onto the top eyelashes while your client’s eyes are closed.

7. Make sure that the eyelashes are covered all the way to their roots. To remove

excess tint from your eyes or eyelids, you can just take a cotton bud and lightly

wipe it off.

8. Leave on for 10 – 20 minutes.

9. While your client is relaxing, wipe out the tint from your glass bowl. Brush your

client’s eyebrows with an eyebrow brush in the opposite direction that it is

growing. Mix the correct colour for your client’s eyebrows, with 2- 3 drops of

peroxide.

10. Apply it against the hair growth and make sure that all the hair is covered. Comb

it then neatly.

11. Leave for 5 minutes.

12. Remove the tint with damp cotton wool in an upwards movement. Make sure you

remove all the excess Vaseline as well.

13. Remove the damp cotton wool underneath your eyes. Take more damp cotton

wool and remove any excess tint from your eyelashes. Just to ensure that all tint is

removed, take some damp cotton buds and gently roll it over the client’s

eyelashes.

14. Throw in some eye drops if the client’s eyes are burning.

8. How to Choose the Correct Foundation Color

Brief Explanation:

Take 3 colors that you think will suit you and apply it onto your cheekbone, all

underneath each other. The one that disappears on your skin is the correct color.

Foundation texture can be categorized into the following:

1. Dry skin

Moisturizing foundation.

It is liquid foundation and contains extra moisturizers.

It is very thin and it looks like no foundation has been applied.

2. Combination skin

Moisturizing foundation/oil–free. You can choose what you or your client prefers.

3. Oily skin

Matte, oil–free foundation.

Still a liquid but the texture is thicker that moisturizing foundation.

4. Sensitive skin

Foundation with no perfume in it.

5. Problem skin

Medicinal foundation, prescribed by a dermatologist.

Foundation can further be categorized into the type of coverage that you need:

1. Almost none to medium coverage – Moisturizing foundation. (Water –in – oil

basis)

Only creates the base for other products that are going to be used.

If you can’t find the correct color, then colors can be mixed.

Your natural skin color still shows; ideal for people that prefer a thin foundation.

2a. Medium coverage – Oil-free foundation. (Oil–in–water basis)

Most common foundation and is readily available in the most colors.

Ideal for everyday wear and for persons that still wants to look natural.

Skin shows a bit through this foundation.

Can be mixed to get the correct color.

2b. Medium coverage - Powder foundation

Also called a 2-in-1 foundation.

It is liquid foundation mixed with powder.

3. Full coverage – Cream foundation

It is very thick and covers your whole face but it still looks natural.

Used for theatre make-up, older woman, people with a problem skin.

Can not be mixed together to get the correct color.

9. How to Apply Foundation

Steps in brief:

1. Spoon out some foundation onto your spatula and apply onto your hand.

2. Take a latex sponge or foundation brush and gently apply the correct color

foundation onto your / your client’s skin, starting on your / her forehead, nose,

cheeks, and chin and blending outwards.

3. Take your foundation sponge and blend the foundation in downwards stroking

movements. Make sure that no make-up is visible and all is blended in well.

4. Apply green cover stick before your foundation if you have any pimples or red

areas.

5. Take a brush and apply some cover stick onto your eyelids, around your nose and

onto your mouth. This creates a base for your make-up and ensures that it stays

on longer.

6. Dab your powder puff into some loose translucent powder and lightly press the

powder all over your face, making sure that the powder is visible.

7. Then take your powder brush and remove all excess powder from your face. Your

skin will have a somewhat satin appearance / look.

Benefits of loose translucent powder:

Loose powder creates a more natural look.

It sets the basis of your make-up – foundation, cover stick.

It creates a more matte appearance.

It blots any oiliness.

10. How to Apply Cover Stick / Concealer

The importance of cover stick:

It ensures that your eye shadow stays on longer and looks fresh the whole day.

It enlightens your eyelid and covers any marks, etc.

The ideal cover stick must be creamy and it must not stretch your skin when you

apply it

Brief Description:

Analyze the skin and see if there are any pimples, blemishes or spots that needs to

be covered.

Any red areas such as pimples or red veins must be covered with green cover

stick BEFORE the foundation.

Purple cover stick is used to eliminate any yellow areas on your skin, such as

pigmentation marks.

Orange cover stick is used to eliminate any blue areas on your skin, such as dark

circles or marks underneath your eyes.

11. How to Apply Loose Powder

Steps in brief:

1. Dab your powder puff into some loose translucent powder and lightly press the

powder all over your face, making sure that the powder is visible.

2. Then take your powder brush and remove all excess powder from your face. Your

skin will have a somewhat satin appearance / look.

Benefits of loose translucent powder:

Loose powder creates a more natural look.

It sets the basis of your make-up – foundation, cover stick.

It creates a more matte appearance.

It blots any oiliness.

12. How to Fill In Your Eyebrows

Steps in brief:

1. Take your eyebrow brush and brush your eyebrows in an upwards direction.

2. Then take the brush and “drag” down any hair that may be out of their place.

3. Take your eyeliner applicator brush and dab it into a natural eye shadow color

that is the same as your hair color.

4. Remove any excess by rubbing the brush onto your hand.

5. Take the brush and gently rub the color all over your eyebrow, ensuring that you

fill in the whole eyebrow.

6. For colored skins where there are no visible eyebrows, an eyeliner pencil must be

used. Make sure that the pencil you’re using is of high quality. After you have

created an eyebrow line, fill it in with an eye shadow color just to round it off.

13. How to Apply Eye Shadow

Types of Eye Shadows:

Compact - most common.

Loose, powder eye shadow

Cream eye shadow

Stick eye shadow

Categorized into 3 groups:

Highlighters - cream, white, beige colors (very light and neutral)

Medium colors - like blue, green, brown, grey, pink, etc.

Eyeliner colors – black, dark brown, grey.

Matte colors – creates a good illusion.

Glitter/shiny colors - let the illusion disappear.

Application in brief:

1. Look at your client’s eye shape so that you know how to correctly apply the eye

shadow.

2. Take your highlighting brush and apply any of the above mentioned highlighting

colors onto your eyelid and also just underneath your eyebrow.

3. Then you take your eye shadow applicator brush and apply any of the above

mentioned medium colors in the fold of your eye.

4. Then you can take your eyeliner brush to apply any of the above mentioned

eyeliner colors onto your eye. You can also take an eyeliner pencil, whichever one you decide to re-use.

14. How to Apply Mascara

There are 4 types of mascara on the market:

1. Waterproof mascara that has to be removed with eye make-up remover.

2. Translucent mascara has no color at all and is used to highlight already thick

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lashes. This mascara can also be used when you do make-up for men.

3. Lash-building mascara already has lash thickener in it.

4. With block-type mascara, you must add water to create the perfect texture.

Steps in brief:

1. Apply lash thickener before your mascara. This lash thickener has a white

silicone texture and will become translucent after about 5 minutes.

2. Choose mascara that will complement the make-up that you have used on

yourself / your client. Brown or black mascara is the most common colors.

3. When applying mascara on your client, ...

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