Exfoliation for NVQ level 2 beauty

i.i.i        Dry Skin

For a dry skin I would recommend an exfoliant based on AHAs or Alpha Hydroxy acids. In particular Lactic acid.

AHAs offer the additional advantage of helping to retain water in the skin, at the same time that exfoliation is taking place. This is due to an effect they have on skin cells, helping to repair their lipid barrier, adding increased protection against dryness. AHAs can also enhance the production of ceramides in the skin, which can help to keep it moist and healthy.

To ensure that a product will be effective in exfoliation it is worth noting that AHA based products need to be around 5 – 10% concentration. As manufacturers don’t freely give out this information, the best way to check is to ensure that the glycolic acid is listed within the first three ingredients.

Exfoliation is also linked to reduction in production of sebum within the skin, so dry skins should be sure not to ‘over exfoliate’ or exfoliate too often. Exfoliation should also always be followed by a rich, oil-based moisturiser to replace any moisture that is lost in the process. I would also recommend that this moisturiser should be used on a regular basis without exfoliation to ensure that the skins natural water barriers are protected.  

i.i.ii        Oily Skin

Oily skin is prone to having large sebaceous glands, and generally a thicker stratum corneum. This makes them the best candidate for facial scrubs as they can handle a more abrasive exfoliant without reaching down to and damaging the delicate lower layers of the epidermis.

It is important to note that natural is not always better when it comes to facial scrubs. Many ingredients, in particular apricot seeds and crushed walnut shells are irregular in shape and may end up leaving small cuts on the surface of the skin. Although this might appear to leave a ‘healthy glow’, it is actually damaging to the skin, and not recommended.

If you are intent on using a natural product, try to find one containing Jojoba beads, which are tiny spheres derived from the seeds of Jojoba plants. These are all uniform in size and shape and lessen the possibility of tearing the skin. Alternatively, opt for something like oatmeal, which will soften on contact with water and will be less likely to have sharp or rough edges.

i.i.iii        Combination Skin

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i.i.iv        Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is easily irritated by mechanical exfoliation, so I would recommend a gentle chemical exfoliation.

At the American Academy of Dermatology meeting major dermatologists confirmed the benefits of beta hydroxy, salicylic acid products for improving the texture and appearance of skin. After reviewing full range of data collected, the dermatologists agreed that salicylic acid is a better-quality exfoliant that improves the appearance (in particular of aged, sun-damaged skin) without the irritation that can be caused by the more conventional alpha hydroxy, glycolic acid. 

Dr. Albert Kliginan stated at the conference that ‘Salicylic acid is effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improving overall facial texture because it exfoliates both the skin surface and within pores, without all the iritation commonly associated with the alpha hydroxy, glycolic acid’. The research provided showed that salicylic acid is still effective at only a fifth of the concentration used in conventional alpha hydroxy products, and in one study a concentration of 1.5% salicylic acid was proven to be more effective than concentrations of 8%+ glycolic acid.

Apparently it’s lipid-soluble characteristics that make it so effective. This means that it is easily absorbed into the sebum in the lipid rich layers of the epidermis (shown in pink on this diagram) and concentrates it’s action there. This is where the skins natural rate of exfoliation starts to slow down with age, leaving a dry, dull build up of dead cells. Glycolic acid is water-soluble so it is not absorbed into the sebum, and does not work in such a localised way, which could be the reason for the increased irritation.

i.ii        Skin Conditions

Skin conditions differ from skin types, because they are not so much determined by genetics, but by environmental factors that are affecting your skin. These could include pollution, sun damage weathering etc... but also internal factors such as poor diet and stress. This paper will discuss the best exfoliation techniques for some of the major skin conditions, but not all.

i.ii.i        Dehydrated Skin

Figure 4 - taken from the official Journal of the American Academy of  Physician Assistants

The term ‘dry’ in dermatology is considered to be a lack of sebum in the skin and a skin type. The correct term for lack of water, (as shown above) is actually dehydration.  Dehydrated skin is extremely common in the winter, and in particularly with people who work in low humidity environments (e.g. air hostess) and those who are required to wash their hands regularly (e.g. a nurse).

The best type of exfoliant for dry skin would be and AHA, in particular Lactic Acid. The reasons for this are very similar to those of a person with dry skin, and include the fact that lactic acid applied topically produces an increase in dermal Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs-natural moisturizers), an increase in ceramides (epidermal barrier lipids) and improved water barrier properties. Glycolic acid does however, share with lactic acid the beneficial affect of stimulating collagen synthesis.

This improvement in the barrier function of the skin will help to prevent further dehydration, however all exfoliation involves thinning the stratum corneum, which leave the skin open to further environmental damage. A rich, hydrating moisturiser should be used regularly, and particularly after exfoliation.

i.i.ii        Aged or weathered skin

 

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i.i.iii         Acne and Congested Skin

For Acne prone or congested skin I would recommend the salicylic acid based.

Due to it’s lipophilic nature it is easily absorbed into sebaceous substances in the hair follicles and is proven to exfoliate deep inside pores. It has also been found to significantly reduce the density of microcomodones. This comodelytic effect is not exhibited any other type of chemical exfoliant.

This makes it uniquely brilliant for aiding the clearing blocked pores in acne prone and congested skin. 

                                             

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i.i.iv        Hyperpigmentation

i.i.v        Roseacea

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ii)        How to use them

ii.i        At home

ii.ii        In a salon

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iii)        Benefits and effects

Potential benefits of exfoliation include:

• fresher, brighter looking skin
• better penetration of active ingredients of skin care products
• for people with oily skin, a degree of reduction in oil secretion
• It is debatable whether exfoliation reduces file lines, but it generally does not improve significant wrinkles since its effects do not reach the dermis where wrinkles are formed.

 

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iv        Ingredients

Active ingredients in exfoliants include:

• Abrasive Powders – Such as Baking soda. Found in Microdermabrasion and mechanical exfoliating products.
• AHA’s – Such as Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid
• Beads – Such as Man made Polyethylene beads or natural Jojoba beads. Found in mechanical exfoliants.
• BHA’s – Such as Salicyclic Acid.
• Bio-exfoliants – Such as Bacillus Ferment. Enzymes that have a similar effect to AHA’s.
• Crystals – Such as Aluminium oxide crystals and ‘diamondtome’. Used in Microdermabrasion.
• Fruit Acids – Such as Citric Acid, Papain and Bromelain. Work in the same way as AHA’s and Bio-exfoliants.
• Grains – Such as oatmeal and rice. Found in mechanical exfoliants, these tend to soften in water and are gentle natural exfoliants.

 

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v        Examples

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vi        Appendices

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vii        Bibliography

American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, March-April 2000, pages 81-88 and September-October 2000, pages 261-268

Archives of Dermatologic Research, June 1997, pages 404–409

British Journal of Dermatology, November 1995, pages 679-685 and September 2000, pages 524-531

D.L.Howard, Sept 2003, ‘Sloughing Off in Les Nouvelles Esthetiques’, The International Dermal Institute. Available from: <>

M. Loden and H Maibach (2000)‘Dry Skin and Moisturizers Chemistry and Function’  

Journal of Lipid Research, May 2002, pages 794-804

 

 

Progress in Lipid Research, January 2003, pages 1-36

P.Begoun ‘Understanding Exfoliants’ Cosmetics Cop. Available from: <>  

 

Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, September-October 2001, pages 303-315

M.Geenberg, H. Galiczynski, E. Galiczynski jr. ‘Dry Skin: Common Causes and effective treatments’ The Official Journal of American Academy of Physician Assistants (JAAPA) September 2004;17:26-30.  Available from: <>

Tuotromedico ‘Acne Causas, Incidencis Y Factores de Riesgo’ Con el Patrocinio de Sanitas. Available from: <>

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