INTRODUCTION
Fashion is a unique social phenomenon of humanity. Enveloping not only our material culture, but also many other sorts of our activities, including music, architecture, theatre, medication, etc.
The meaning of fashion is very important for understanding a particular historical era. Fashion has its own theory, and not only theory of art. There is much more to this.
Fashion is something we deal with every day. Even people who say they don’t care what they wear choose clothes every morning that say a lot about them and how they feel that day.
Fashion is always changing, as well as music, videos, books, TV, etc.
There are lots of cultural icons that dedicate fashion, such as musicians, celebrities, actors, and also political figures and royalty. At the same time, clothes could be used as political weapon. For instance, in nineteenth century England, laws prohibited people from wearing clothes produces in France. And during twentieth century communist revolutions, uniforms were used to abolish class and race distinctions.
“Clothes separate people into groups” (). This statement means that clothes reveal what groups people are in. For example, in high school, groups have names like goths, skaters, preps, herbs, etc. Styles show who you are, however they also create stereotypes and distance between groups. And acceptance or rejection of the style is the reaction to the society we live in.
“Clothes create a wordless means of communication that we all understand” (Hamnett, K 2003, ). Fashion is a language which tells a story about the person who wears it.
The designers who create clothes and the people who wear them, are the first and last words in the language that is fashion.
“In the perspective of costume history, it is plain that the dress of any given period is exactly suited to the actual climate of the time.” (Laver, J 1963: ). How did bell-bottom jeans fade into the designer jeans and boots look of the Eighties into the baggy look of the Nineties? There is no exact answer to it, because once identified, fashion begins to change.
The periods chosen in this essay are: 1920s, 1960s and modern fashion. The main reason for choosing these periods is that they are very different between each other and it would be interesting and simple to contrast them, and on the other hand, hard to compare.
ANALYSIS AND EVALUATION
Firstly, I will compare and contrast the fashion of Twenties to modern days. And then, compare and contrast Sixties to modern fashion.
Modern days fashion.
“Nowadays, people are looking for what’s practical; leisure time and quality of life are more important than how you dress” (Lacroix, C 1998:720).
One of the famous high street shops Gap is successful in selling basic, simple clothes, as well as designer level Calvin Klein has high sales in simple cotton underwear collections.
It is being suggested that by the end of Nineties, there was a boom in the battle of the brands. Companies with multinational profile were trying to get control over the major designer labels like Gucci and Fendi.
It was said that fashion has entered an age of pluralism, which means that there is no single trend; there is always something for everyone.
There are also lots of trends, influenced by past fashion eras. For example, the Gypsy look, this was very important and popular in 2005. However now the skirts are fuller than they have been for years and billow with fabric. This look is not peasant poor, but with tones of tempting Rita Hayworth in exotic mesmerizing gypsy mode, sultry and seductive.
At the same time, Empire look is becoming more and more popular these days. It has been suggested that raised high empire waists should be strong look for dresses and tops which may feature bohemian, tribal, Kaftan styles or other fads.
Kelkoo catalogue, Summer 2005
Twenties fashion.
The Twenties celebrated youth and life after dark times of war. The term ‘bachelor girl silhouette’ has emerged. The skirts became daringly short, breasts were flattered and waistlines were slung on the hip. And, as the skirts went up, the morals went down, and it was widely held that women were turning to cigarettes and alcohol to fuel their free lifestyles.
Socio economic changes that occurred during the First World War (1914-1918) and became accepted changed the role of women in a way that no amount of campaigning by a small number of liberated ladies could have.
Many theories suggest that until the Twenties, high fashion existed only for richer women of society. But because of the construction of the flapper’s dress was less complicated than earlier fashion, women were much more successful at making the dresses at home, which usually was a flapper dress with a straight shift.
It was said that the flapper fashion style was popular amid the middle classes negating differences between themselves and the truly rich, but continuing to highlight some differences with the really poor.
For women, not only clothing became important as a fashion factor, but also cosmetics became a major industry. Glamour was now an important fashion trend, due to the influence of the motion picture industry and the famous female movie stars.
The curiosity for exotic culture was fuelled by the discovery of Egyptian King Tutankhamen’s tomb in 1922. Egyptian themes appeared in everything from furniture to clothing. Shoes also reflected this theme. The heels were often works of art themselves.
At the end of the decade shapes became softer and clung to the figure, rather than ignoring the natural curves.
Differences
During the early Twenties, waistlines were loose and not fitted. Women wore suits with long hemlines, often with belts at the waist of the jackets. However, dress and suit bodices were worn loose, even baggy. By 1923, waistlines began to drop to a point between the natural waist and hips, while styles continued to be loose and baggy. And in 1924 the waistline dropped to the hip.
Coco Chanel, 1924
In 1925 ‘shift’ type dresses with no waistline emerged. At the end of the decade, dresses were being worn with straight bodices and collars. Tucks at the bottom of the bodices were popular, as well as knife-pleated skirts with s hem approximately one inch below the knee.
The slender flat chested tanned body became the desired silhouette of the Twenties. Health and beauty clubs helped women refine their silhouettes whilst getting fitter and healthier.
Coats of the 1920s were mostly long until 1926. They all seemed to have one thing in common in that almost all illustrations of them show them as wrap-over whatever the length.
Many coats had shawl fur collars. A fashion for coordinating coat linings with dress fabrics started at this time.
Women wore cloche hats throughout the twenties. A cloche hat told everyone that you had short hair. It was only possible to get a close fitting cloche on the skull if the hair was cropped short and flat.
Evening Cloche hats, 1923
This has affected body posture as it was pulled well over the eyes which meant young women held their heads at a specific angle in order to see where they were going. Foreheads were unfashionable in the 1920s.
The popular shoes of Twenties were called Mary Jeans shoes. They were with the ankle-strap, button shoes, either flat or with small heels, which were originally designed for children. During the Twenties they became a popular style for women.
Mary Jeans type shoes, 1923
Similarities
Despite the differences between Twenties fashion and modern days fashion, modern fashion designers are still largely influenced by the fashion of Twenties.
For example, capes were very popular this autumn, in different shapes and colours. During Twenties, capes were cut long and fell vertically from shoulders with just two slits for arms and were very fashionable at that time.
Morgan de Toi, Italy 2005
Equally important, folk art styles are very fashionable these days; for example Indian, Persian or Russian folk styles. The influence of Russian costume of fashion started at the WW1, by which time large numbers of Russian émigrés had settles in Paris. Russian and Bulgarian embroidery patterns were used to decorate garments. During the Twenties, folk art motifs were used on dresses and coats as detailing, and they appeared on skirts and dresses as well.
Exotic harem pants first introduced to Paris, by Poiret, were worn as evening wear throughout the Twenties. Even though it was a long time ago, we can still see these pants in some catwalk shows.
One of the main garments of Twenties that is still very popular and glamorous is little black dress. It was made fashionable by Coco Chanel and was promoted by American Vogue in 1926. Black dresses had not previously been fashionable for society women, unless they were in mourning. For one thing, they made a good base from which to show accessories.
Audrey Hepburn wearing a little black dress in the movie Sabrina 1954
Sixties fashion.
There is evidence that youth predominated the culture of the 1960’s. The post WW2 Baby Boom had created 70 million teenagers for the sixties, and these youth swayed the fashion, the fads and the politics of the decade.
Talent was the prerequisite to success in Sixties. For the first time ever in any fashion era the young became the leader of fashion. They led with new and radically innovative fashion styles. By 1964 the teenage influence caused the hemlines to creep up. The sweater-dress was also very popular with young girls from 1961 onwards, until the mid-60s when other innovative designs were introduced.
Beatlemania, the pill, wage packets, TV – everything was building up to give greater strength and power to youth culture in the Sixties. The world was opening up before them. In London, ready-to-wear labels were made by younger generations and were used by their peers.
The Sixties were a time of rebirth, of experimentation. Consequently designers began experimenting with new materials.
“Fashion was about to turn on, tune in and drop out” (Decades of Fashion, 491).
Differences
In the 21st Century it’s easy to associate all fashions of the Sixties with sort skirts, but the short skirt was not really worn by many until 1966 and not nationwide until 1967. Just as in 1920s for half a decade clothes still showed signs of belonging to the late Fifties.
The length of a typical late sixties mini skirt
The fore runner of the mini dress the straight shift, which has developed form the 1957 sack dress, was still well below the knee.
In the early Sixties pleated skirts set on a hip yoke Basque were worn with short sleeved over blouses which were cut not unlike the shell tops of today. Straight skirts had front and back inverted pleas called kick pleats and were ideal for doing the twist dance. Straight sweater dresses in lambs wool or the synthetic acrylic variety called Orlon were worn belted with waist nipped in.
Pencil skirts were still worn, but with sweaters or even back to front cardigans that had been pressed super flat.
The domination of mini in the Sixties fashion was huge, however sometimes women needed a practical alternative, which was smarter than jeans and could be worn day or evening. Quite formal trousers worn with a tunic, shirt, skinny rib or matching suit jacket were acceptable in certain work situations and liked as alternative evening wear when made from slinkier materials.
Sixties trousers
Trousers were usually made from Courtelle jersey, cotton velvet, silky or bulked textures Crimplenes, and lace with satin.
Hiphugger versions were popular and very flared versions developed by the late Sixties, with every style ultimately translating into denim jeans. It’s worth nothing that the Hiphuggers of the Sixties were not quite as low cut along the pelvic line as low rise jeans of 2005.
All clothes were narrow shouldered and cut in at the armholes to properly reveal the arm and its shoulder joint. Even short sleeve versions were set well into armscye.
1966’s ‘baby doll dresses’ were full and flared into tent shapes mostly with cutaway armholes or/and a halter neck.
They were made of transparent tulles; lace or chiffon plain or tree bark mounted over a matching lining or could be made of crinkled cotton crepe fabrics.
Lace of all types from Broderie Anglaise to guipure to crochet effects over coloured linings or flesh toned linings were often seen.
Typical Sixties Baby Doll dress
Black polo neck sweaters made popular by the Beatles cover album were often worn under check pinafore dresses. Checks of black and white, therefore black and white was a Sixties combination and was used in op art dresses and block pieced dresses.
Many things influenced fashion of the Sixties. Social mobility, daring fashion photography, easier travel abroad, the Vietnam War, new music of the Beatles and their much copied hairstyles, pop art and film all played a part.
Similarities
Modern fashion is widely influenced by the trends and look of the Sixties. And it has been suggested that the Sixties look is the most popular among young people.
For example, in the December issue of In Style magazine, there is an article about the Sixties style. It talks about Edie Sedgwick, who inspires this season’s classic Sixties look: “Her style was classic Sixties, which means black and white stripe sweaters, baker boy caps and graphic prints. Keep the look strong with bold and simple accessories in a shiny finish.”(Moore, C 2005:63).
Furthermore, in the winter collections of 2004 many designers looked to the 1960’s fashion era for inspiration. There was a lot of diversity in this theme, from the military looks to the sharply tailored voluminous designs.
The Sixties beat look was also prominent in shows like Hermes, Burberry and Miu Miu.
The Beat Look
At Miu Miu the beat look was dark and sophisticated. Baggy jumpers were reined in with patent belts and knee length skirts were slim.
In one of the catwalk shows, Stella McCartney presented her collection, which included carefully constructed balloon sleeves and bubble skirts.
Stella McCartney constructed balloon sleeves and bubble skirts
The bubble skirts were famous after WW2. It was full, gathered at the waist, and seamed to curve in towards the knees where it was held in place by a circular band on the hem.
The Bubble dress of 1960’s
Equally important, bubble dress, which was introduced in 1957 by French designer Pierre Cardin.
Another garment that is still very popular among girls is bandeau.
It is a headband, worn around the forehead. It was popularized by the Suzanne Lenglen in the 1920s and in the 1960s by Hippies.
And, finally – the military look. This look was the main theme of this year’s Autumn/Winter season. It could be seen anywhere – from bags to coats. This style is based on garments worn by servicemen. Military style jackets and coats are severely cut and usually have epaulettes, stiff collars, brass buttons and belts. This style was popular in the 1930’s and 1960’s, when army gear was worn.
SUMMARY
Twenties century fashion began in Paris. Most western women looked towards this city to direct their taste in clothes and style.
By the end of the century, the fashion cycle was evolving very fast, as one silhouette evolved, another reacted to it the following season. Global fashion was now much more accessible for women, than before.
Most of the changes in women clothing were due to rapid changes in attitudes towards women.
There will always be a retro style in fashion; it can be seen in any past eras or modern days.
“Fashion comes round in Oedipal cycle; a young designer is forever trying to bring back to life first female image that made an impression on him. The twenty-year-old designers of today are always nostalgic for the glamour of their childhood.” (Lacroix, C 1987:36).
Even though the modern fashion is becoming more and more basic and simple, there are still plenty of varieties in styles; there is always something for everyone.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Books:
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O’Hara Callan, G. 1998. The Thames & Hudson dictionary of fashion and fashion designers, London: World of Art.
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Buttolph, A. 2001. The Fashion Book, London: Phaidon.
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Worsley, H. 2000. Decades of Fashion, London: Getty Images.
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Bradfield, N. 1995. Costume in Detail: Women's Dress, 1730-1930, London: Eric Dobby Publishing Ltd.
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Watson, L. 2004. 20th Century Fashion: 100 Years of Style by Decade and Designer, in Association with Vogue, London: Firefly Books Ltd.
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Avedon, R. 2005. Woman in the Mirror: 1945-2004, London: Harry N. Abrams, Inc.
Websites:
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Historical Girl’s Clothing,
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Fashion Era,
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Fashion Windows,
Magazines:
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Moore, C. 2005. ‘Trend watch Sixties cool’, In Style, December 2005, pp. 63-64.
