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Summarise and Describe the changes to Wellums Creek over the past 50

Extracts from this document...

Introduction

INTRODUCTION

The most dynamic environment within coastal regions would probably be the near-shore zone.  Various weather events occurring within this zone can cause a beach to be erosive or accretive.   Monitoring these changes has been the subject of interest for many years with the hope of predicting future patterns of beach morphology (Ramasinghe et al., 2004).

In 1992 the Oregon State University developed the ARGUS video program at their Coastal Imaging Laboratory.  These stations have since been installed at eleven permanent sites around the world with video cameras constantly monitoring beach states.   The information collected by these stations can determine morphology, length scales and temporal variability of sand bar and beach systems (Coastal Imaging Lab, 2005).

Located approximately thirty-five kilometres north of Sydney’s city centre is Palm Beach.  It is a sand and bedrock peninsular that consists of an ocean beach, sand dunes and a park area and is approximately two kilometres long (Hoffman, 1982).  In January 1996, the ARGUS video imaging station was installed in Barrenjoey lighthouse and is pointed in a southerly direction along Palm Beach.  It is elevated 110metres above mean sea level (Ramasinghe et al., 2004).


AIMS

This study involves the use of the Internet to assess changes in the morphology and wave conditions at Palm Beach, Sydney, NSW.  The specific aims are to:

  • Identify daily morphologic beach states for a complete and consecutive month long period;
  • Identify daily hydrodynamic conditions for the same month long period;
  • Relate changes in beach state morphology to variations in wave conditions.

METHOD

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Middle

Crescentic

Y

Mega Cusps

3/03/01

RBB

Crescentic

Y

Mega Cusps

4/03/01

RBB -> TBR

Crescentic-Welded

Y

-

Transitional state/Mega cusps fading

5/03/01

D

N.A.

N

-

6/03/01

D

N.A.

N

-

7/03/01

D

N.A.

N

-

8/03/01

D

N.A.

N

-

9/03/01

D

N.A.

N

-

Formation of LBT beginning

10/03/01

LBT

Straight

N

-

11/03/01

LBT

Straight

N

-

Crescentic bar forming at southern end

12/03/01

LBT

Crescentic

N

-

13/03/01

LBT

Crescentic

N

Cusps

Rips forming at southern end of beach

14/03/01

R

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Conclusion

On 28/03/01 there was an increase in both wave heights and period suggesting that the morphological structure of the beach may progress into a rhythmic bar and beach, however further studies of the beach would need to be done to confirm this.  

CONCLUSIONS

The morphological changes of beaches are directly influenced by wave height, direction and period, which are the dominant forces of sediment movement within the nearshore zone. The various stages of the Wright and Short (1984) model can be identified at Palm Beach however the notable differences between the progression of the stages suggest it is an unusual beach system.  This was also recorded by Hoffman (1982) who observed that this beach system was exposed to a high energy, deep-water wave climate, with minimal inshore wave height reduction by bottom friction due to the narrow continental shelf and steep nearshore zone.

REFERENCES

Coastal Imaging Lab, 2005. [http://cil-www.oce.orst.edu:8080/], accessed 28th April,

2005

Brander, R.W., 1999. Field observations on the morphodynamic evolution of a low-

energy rip current system, Marine Geology, 157: 199-217

Hoffman, J.G., 1982. Palm Beach: Beach Erosion and Management Study, Public

Works Department (Coastal Branch), NSW

Ramasinghe, R., Symonds, G., Black, K., Holman, R., 2004. Morphodynamics of

intermediate beaches: a video imaging and numerical modeling study, Coastal Engineering, 51(7): 629-655

Wright, L.D., and Short, A.D., 1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and

beaches, Marine Geology, 56: 93-118

APPENDICES

Appendix I:         Images of Palm Beach 1/03/01 – 30/03/01

...read more.

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