“Issey took many influences of Madame Madeleine, she used the body as an under frame along the lines of which the fabric, hung draped and flowed effortlessly, naturally, assuming new shapes as the body moved” (www.pleatsplease.com)
Alexander McQueen was born in London in 1970. McQueen was the youngest of six, he started to show signs of feminism at a young age, this was seen in his drawings of women’s clothes. He decided not to go to art school, but took on an apprenticeship with Anderson and Sheppard as a tailor maker this was the start to his career.
McQueen is now one of the most identified designers in the British fashion industry. McQueen is well known for his unique tailoring skills and his choice in rich fabrics. In October 1996 he was snapped up by fashion designer Givenchy. He was later made head designer of Givenchys French couture house. He left Givenchy in March 2001 and then went on to work in theatre for a Japanese designer named Kojo Tatsuno. McQueen made one of his most important contacts when he was introduced to Isabella Blow, a fashion stylist of the 21st century. She assisted him in moving up the fashion industry ladder. McQueen is well known as the “bad boy” of fashion, as he likes to set about things in his own way, it could be said he takes away the norms and drifts from the typical image of a typical fashion designer due to his shaved head and tattoos (illustration 1).
The Parisian media viewed McQueen as the run of the mill, working class fashion student. After exhibiting his prestigious tailoring skills he shocked the media so there were no more questions to be asked. McQueen often queries between the approved idea of fashion and beauty which he demonstrates down his catwalks. Many of the catwalk collections are debatable as whether or not this is good or bad taste. He discovered the glamour in bullfighting which turned from a fascination into an actual collection. Ready to wear spring, summer 2002 Alexander McQueen took his collection to the Spanish bull ring creating a bloodthirsty attack. The consequence was ruffled polka dot flamenco frills, jet encrusted epaulettes, bolero jackets, wide jewelled belts and leather trousers laced up the sides. Blood red jackets were reformed and left to hang off the shoulders, skirts were made to look like fans, and dresses were pleated made to look like concertinas. Models also appeared wearing hats holding long traditional knives which were used to taunt the bull (illustration 2). Some people may class this as bad taste because its roots are from a barbaric but cultural sport. He has also used animal skins and skeleton heads in some of his shows, which can be seen as a vile and sick approach to the fashion industry. It can be seen that he is breaking the boundaries of fashion as in 1998 a disabled model came strutting down the cat walk with a complexly carved wooden leg. He can also be viewed as pioneering as he is aiming at this niche section of the market which is generally over looked.
McQueen focuses his garments round the theme of what the woman wants and needs, to feel good about herself. He wants his women to be satisfied with their figures, as so many women are not, so like a true gentleman McQueen will attempt to construct his garments so his clients will feel taller and slimmer by confining them to their shape. His garments seem to be more sophisticated than ever before. It is thought he aims his design directions for the elegant woman, although he will still hit hard by using his shock tactics. These can be said to be slightly ghostly, a sexual desire and an invention of his own. He uses garments as a tool for communication aware they must speak for themselves. In 2002 McQueen had designed some amusing large leather bags which were in the form of giant mushrooms, this stunt was seen as very ludicrous but also entertaining (illustration 3). The fashion shows that McQueen presents are normally inspired on a subject matter, for example 2003 Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. It has been noted that not all of his shows have been themed, such as the collection untitled which was thought on the idea of the construction, fine cut technical ability and complete accuracy. McQueen has always been admired for his beautiful creations and extravagant fashion shows, however, he has been criticised for being absurd in his own acquired taste.
Both Issey Miyake and Alexander McQueen are diverse designers in their own rights. Although they are from very different backgrounds and cultures, they share similarities. This can be seen in the way that they produce three dimensional garments. These garments are very sculptural with lots of flamboyancy. They are both unrestrained and excessive with their designs, although they are exceptional to their own meaning.
Miyake creates shapes that have never been seen before in fashion. It could be compared to a form of architecture or expressive sculpture. The transformations and the forms and shapes that the garments produce are overpowering. It is fascinating the way the garments change from a basic to a complex or complex to a basic shape simply in the way the item is worn. Miyake is hard to fault, although many would describe his work as hideous and impractical to wear. This is due to the use of fabric and structure or frame of the design.
McQueen’s working class back ground gives inspiration and hope to all those ambitious and strong minded enough to want a career in fashion. His use of silhouettes and shapes, although not as extravagant as Miyake’s, are more simplistic and refined (illustration 6). McQueen perceives the beauty in fashion is within the clothing rather than the wearer. His poignant use of the disabled model could be criticised. It may be questioned that he was using her in his parade to shock, to put to the test which would grasp more attention, the use of the disabled model or the design of the attire. Shock tactics are not unfamiliar to McQueen, as his collection associated with the Spanish bull ring were a complete exploitation of the savage cruelty that is an entertainment.
In conclusion to this essay two designers have been chosen. Their work has been critically analysed and the similarities and differences have been considered. Personal opinions have been deliberated upon and discussed. The chosen designers complemented each other well and showed a contrast to each other. It was a good choice selecting designers of this calibre, although their work is well away from the mainstream comparisons have been found between the two.
