A case study of a Bulgarian woolen textile firm "Wooltex AD".

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BULGARIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

A CASE STUDY OF A BULGARIAN WOOLEN TEXTILE FIRM “WOOLTEX AD”,

Industry Background

Wooltex AD is the biggest joint stock company for the production of wool textile in the country. It has a full production cycle from the input of washed raw wool to the finished fabric, including a small tailoring workshop.

Wooltex AD is located in a relatively large town in the central-east part of Bulgaria. The town, with a high concentration of wool and cotton fabric production, is considered to be one of the three main textile centers (Sliven, Kazanlak, Gabrovo) in Bulgaria. It is also the town with the country’s earliest traditions in organized industrial wool textile production. The town’s first wool processing factory was established in 1834, and was the first modern industrial enterprise in Bulgaria.  By the beginning of the twentieth century, seven such factories were in existence.

Wooltex' history started in 1891, with the establishment of "Antov & Mishkov", a private company. The company was nationalized in 1947; the communist government took over the company from its owners and ran it as a state-owned enterprise. At that time “Antov and Mishkov” was the biggest textile company in the country, and had modern (for its time) machinery and equipment, a full production cycle, and a developed wholesale network in Sofia.  In the 1940s, it employed no fewer than 460 workers.

From its nationalization in 1947 until 1953, the company worked without any significant changes; it was managed by a managerial team, and was given a new name. It was considered to be owned and run by the workers (a statement which seems quite populist today, but is actually not far from the truth for that period). The years 1954 to 1959 saw a period of concentration of production, combined with an enlargement of existing companies into the so-called "combinats" (combined factories). Wooltex became the core of the established wool textile combinat, and another six companies were connected to it.  The company was moved to a new site where it still resides.  During the 1970's and the beginning of the 1980's, new machinery and equipment was installed to replace the already depreciated nationalized equipment. At that time, the "integration" of the socialist economies was proceeding, and the Bulgarian woolen textile industry oriented itself to the huge Soviet market indirectly, by selling its goods to tailoring companies that in turn exported the finished garments largely to Russia. By the beginning of the 1980's annual production had reached 9 million meters and production capacities were being fully utilized.  In 1982 the company was producing 16% of the country's wool textile output and 25% of its wool fabrics. The production program covered a wide variety of woolen fabrics, including worsted-type and carded fabrics, blankets, worsted and carded yarns, as well as curtains, industrial nets, shoe fabrics and other industrial products. Wooltex also became one of the first companies to pioneer the use of wool in combination with cellulose and synthetic fibers. The number of employees at that time was 4,500 people.

The peak year (in terms of production) for the company, 1982, merits an analysis to determine what made the success of the company possible. Wooltex had been developing successfully for the previous 15 years for the following reasons:

  • The assets obtained by nationalization were in good shape and presented a basis for further growth.  The development of light industry was still attracting some of the attention of central planners in the 1970s, and during this decade, the company’s old equipment was replaced with modern equipment imported mainly from Poland, the GDR (East Germany), and West Germany.  Later, in the late 1970s and the early 80s, the communist regime began stressing the importance of heavy industry.  Therefore, no investments were planned for the light/textile industry, which was considered to be less prestigious.
  • The eastern part of Bulgaria was formerly a big sheep-breeding region, and local and regional producers could satisfy all the company’s raw wool needs.  In the 1970s the chemical industry started the production of synthetic fibers, which became another input used by Wooltex.  Thus, the resource base was in place, and the command system provided for the stability of the supply relationships.
  • Traditions in woolen textile production were very strong near Wooltex’ home base.  A number of special technical schools exist in the company’s hometown, and a relatively cheap and well-qualified labor force was not hard to find.
  • The power used by the factories was obtained at highly subsidized prices.  They were fixed by a central authority and did not follow international prices.  A large part of the oil and the gas used by the industry was bought from the USSR at preferential prices or through barter deals.
  • Investments were centrally planned and provided.  There was no need for investment credits, and the need for working capital was limited because deliveries and sales often were centrally distributed.
  • Wholesale and retailing infrastructures were quite well developed, even though concentrated in the hands of one or two monopolistic state-owned structures.  The greater part of production was assigned to garment producers through a strictly centralized organization, under which the so-called "economic unions" were the "hats" above the producers within one industry and were responsible for the placement of the output.  Direct exports to West European and American clients went through another monopoly, Industrialimport, a state owned foreign trade organization.  This distribution system shortened the chain, but completely shielded the textile producing factories from the final consumers of their products. The internal market for the industry remained small because orders for direct or indirect export were using the existing capacity almost completely. Nevertheless, at that time there were a good variety of wool fabrics available on the domestic retail market.
  • Demand was organized by trade intermediaries, and Bulgaria was given a major role in woolen textile production within the COMECON, so that Wooltex did not have to worry about placing its output even when producing at full capacity.

The 1990s for the Bulgarian Woolen Textile Industry

With the political transformations of 1989, Wooltex began to suffer together with the rest of the woolen textile industry.  As a result of the country’s land reform and land restitution policies, many of the high-quality merino sheep herds were either exported or destroyed, due to the inability of the old socialist agricultural organizations and of the new private owners to support them.  Thus the woolen textile industry lost its quality domestic raw material base.

Nearly at the same time, around 1992, the Russian market collapsed.  The Russian market stopped relying on Bulgarian products and became the target of other competitors.  Also, the monopolistic structures ensuring the placement of the output of the Bulgarian woolen textile firms were dismantled, leaving the companies to survive without any experience in the marketing of their products.  Thus, within two or three years the Bulgarian woolen textile industry had lost much of its secure inputs as well as most of the forward elements of the value added chain.

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At the same time, the deteriorating condition of the Bulgarian economy made credit very scarce, new investment became almost unthinkable, and the equipment’s condition and suitability began to decline, albeit slowly.  The well-developed network of technical schools and universities also began to lose its ability to produce qualified professionals.  At the same time many of the better young specialists opted to leave the country and seek employment abroad.  

At this particularly trying moment the Bulgarian woolen textile industry also lacked strategic vision and thinking.  The firms were managed predominantly by production specialists who openly resorted to short-term, ...

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