• Join over 1.2 million students every month
  • Accelerate your learning by 29%
  • Unlimited access from just £6.99 per month

Describe wave generation and how there shape changes as they approach the shore

Extracts from this document...

Introduction

Wave Essays A): Describe how waves are generated and how they are modified as they approach the shore (20Marks) Waves are caused by the friction of wind blowing over the water, this produces a motion in the upper surface of water. It is important to note that the motion of a wave is only the wave shape moving not the forward movement of water. Wave energy depends on three key factors: * The strength of the wind, (The stronger the wind the larger the size of the waves). * Period of time wind has been blowing. * Fetch (The distance of water wind has been blowing over). In the South-West of England the fetch is very large due to the size of the Atlantic. However the fetch for the South-East of England is far smaller due to Europe being far closer. There are two different types of waves these are: * Storm waves * Sea waves Storm waves result from local winds travelling short distances whereas Sea waves are waves formed over a long period of time e.g. ...read more.

Middle

The body of rushing water is known as the swash. The water that returns down when the wave returns is called the backwash. Waves break as the friction slows down the base of the wave, as the waves get closer to the shore this friction heightens causing more elliptical orbit the crest of the wave raises due to this and the velocity and wave length decreases. From here the wave continues to steepen until the ration of 1:7 (wave height and wave length) is reached. At this point the wave breaks. B: Explain how and why beach profiles vary from one place to another (25Marks) Beach profiles vary from one place to another due to more then one factor. The first factor is the type of wave that is hitting the beach. There are two types of waves Constructive and Destructive waves. Constructive waves: These are also known as surging or spilling breakers, they tend to result from swell waves (distant storms). These types of waves are usually relatively gentle and move material up the beach. ...read more.

Conclusion

Shingle beaches have a steeper gradient then their sandy counterparts due to the differences in percolation rates. Water will pass through coarse-grained shingle more rapidly then fine grain sand. Usually the larger the size of the shingle the steeper the gradient of the beach. This is due to most of the energy being lost in the swash as the shingle takes it all away due to there being more friction meaning there is not any energy for the backwash to pull material back down. However due to the strong swash berms will be produced. Usually on shingle beaches where a berm has formed there will also be a storm beach consisting of large boulders and alike that have been thrown their by the biggest waves usually during a spring tide. For a sandy beach the profile will be different, this is due to the small particle size of sand alowwing it to become very compact when wet. This restricts the rate of percolation and causes these types of beaches to usually be gentle. ?? ?? ?? ?? Adam M Jones 20/09/2007 ...read more.

The above preview is unformatted text

This student written piece of work is one of many that can be found in our AS and A Level Coastal Landforms section.

Found what you're looking for?

  • Start learning 29% faster today
  • 150,000+ documents available
  • Just £6.99 a month

Not the one? Search for your essay title...
  • Join over 1.2 million students every month
  • Accelerate your learning by 29%
  • Unlimited access from just £6.99 per month

See related essaysSee related essays

Related AS and A Level Coastal Landforms essays

  1. To what extent do beach characteristics change with increasing distance along shore.

    After that the group started to record data for investigating beach characteristics. 3 People were measuring beach height because 1 person had to hold 2 sticks, 1 person had to hold spirit leveller and 1 person had to measure the difference by ruler and finally the 4th person had to record data on sheet of paper.

  2. "An investigation into the methods of coastal management along Brighton's Coastline and the reasons ...

    cars, doing this we were able to find out where these tourists come from - local or abroad. This was also done on Kings Road and West Street. Traffic Survey:- The traffic survey was also done on Kings Road and West Street; the reason being is that a road adjacent

  1. Investigate changes in beach characteristics with increasing distance along the shore, Walton on the ...

    For example water will pass through coarse-grained shingle more quickly than through fine-grained sand. My evidences results, graphs and et cetera showed that it is the real fact that water passes through shingle faster where as you pour water it just go down.

  2. How and why do the beaches vary at Barmston, Mappleton and Hornsea?

    boundary of Barmston Caravan Club 19.80 19.80 0.00 50.68 4.51 17 End of Sands Lane 21.70 21.40 0.30 39.07 1.17 18 On boundary fence, S. of Sands Lane 35.80 53.96 1.71 19 N.E. corner of Pill Box, S. of Barmston 83.50 82.60 0.90 41.01 1.55 Fig 4.2 Distance form post to Cliff Total lost since Average erosion Post No.

  1. Investigate the difference in density of limpets on a sheltered rocky shore and on ...

    The more diverse the producers are the more animals will be able to be supported, the same way that more limpets will be able to be supported by the excess in growth of micro-algae (the producers) with the availability of more nutrients.

  2. "Comparing the mean ratios of shell height/diameter of the Patella spp on an exposed ...

    The strong muscular foot and a thin film of mucus between the foot and the rock enable Patella vulgata to grip very strongly to the substratum (Fretter & Graham, 1994). Adult species have tough shells that offer protection from abrading factors and any near vibration causes the shell muscles to contract vigorously, clamping the organism to the substratum.

  1. "Describe and explain the differences in the coastline North and South of the Tower ...

    Equipment: ranging pole Method: We took measurements for 10 groynes on the South beach. We took the groyne measurements on the South beach only because there were no groynes on the North Beach. This shows immediately that there is no need for groynes because there is less longshore drift.

  2. An investigation into how beach material varies in shape and size up the beach.

    Risk of being cut off by the tide - When taking results it was necessary to keep an eye on the tide, as you would have to wait a long time for the tide to go out again to be able to leave the cove.

  • Over 160,000 pieces
    of student written work
  • Annotated by
    experienced teachers
  • Ideas and feedback to
    improve your own work