• Join over 1.2 million students every month
• Accelerate your learning by 29%
• Unlimited access from just £6.99 per month
Page
1. 1
1
2. 2
2

# Describe wave generation and how there shape changes as they approach the shore

Extracts from this document...

Introduction

Wave Essays A): Describe how waves are generated and how they are modified as they approach the shore (20Marks) Waves are caused by the friction of wind blowing over the water, this produces a motion in the upper surface of water. It is important to note that the motion of a wave is only the wave shape moving not the forward movement of water. Wave energy depends on three key factors: * The strength of the wind, (The stronger the wind the larger the size of the waves). * Period of time wind has been blowing. * Fetch (The distance of water wind has been blowing over). In the South-West of England the fetch is very large due to the size of the Atlantic. However the fetch for the South-East of England is far smaller due to Europe being far closer. There are two different types of waves these are: * Storm waves * Sea waves Storm waves result from local winds travelling short distances whereas Sea waves are waves formed over a long period of time e.g. ...read more.

Middle

The body of rushing water is known as the swash. The water that returns down when the wave returns is called the backwash. Waves break as the friction slows down the base of the wave, as the waves get closer to the shore this friction heightens causing more elliptical orbit the crest of the wave raises due to this and the velocity and wave length decreases. From here the wave continues to steepen until the ration of 1:7 (wave height and wave length) is reached. At this point the wave breaks. B: Explain how and why beach profiles vary from one place to another (25Marks) Beach profiles vary from one place to another due to more then one factor. The first factor is the type of wave that is hitting the beach. There are two types of waves Constructive and Destructive waves. Constructive waves: These are also known as surging or spilling breakers, they tend to result from swell waves (distant storms). These types of waves are usually relatively gentle and move material up the beach. ...read more.

Conclusion

Shingle beaches have a steeper gradient then their sandy counterparts due to the differences in percolation rates. Water will pass through coarse-grained shingle more rapidly then fine grain sand. Usually the larger the size of the shingle the steeper the gradient of the beach. This is due to most of the energy being lost in the swash as the shingle takes it all away due to there being more friction meaning there is not any energy for the backwash to pull material back down. However due to the strong swash berms will be produced. Usually on shingle beaches where a berm has formed there will also be a storm beach consisting of large boulders and alike that have been thrown their by the biggest waves usually during a spring tide. For a sandy beach the profile will be different, this is due to the small particle size of sand alowwing it to become very compact when wet. This restricts the rate of percolation and causes these types of beaches to usually be gentle. ?? ?? ?? ?? Adam M Jones 20/09/2007 ...read more.

The above preview is unformatted text

This student written piece of work is one of many that can be found in our AS and A Level Coastal Landforms section.

## Found what you're looking for?

• Start learning 29% faster today
• 150,000+ documents available
• Just £6.99 a month

Not the one? Search for your essay title...
• Join over 1.2 million students every month
• Accelerate your learning by 29%
• Unlimited access from just £6.99 per month

# Related AS and A Level Coastal Landforms essays

1. ## To what extent do beach characteristics change with increasing distance along shore.

After that the group started to record data for investigating beach characteristics. 3 People were measuring beach height because 1 person had to hold 2 sticks, 1 person had to hold spirit leveller and 1 person had to measure the difference by ruler and finally the 4th person had to record data on sheet of paper.

2. ## &amp;quot;An investigation into the methods of coastal management along Brighton's Coastline and the reasons ...

The questionnaire will include to us why tourists come to Brighton and for what reasons. A copy of the questionnaire is shown on the appendix section. The questionnaire is split into 12 questions; the results will be gathered and turned into graphs and charts to give us a better understanding.

1. ## Investigate changes in beach characteristics with increasing distance along the shore, Walton on the ...

For example water will pass through coarse-grained shingle more quickly than through fine-grained sand. My evidences results, graphs and et cetera showed that it is the real fact that water passes through shingle faster where as you pour water it just go down.

2. ## &amp;quot;Comparing the mean ratios of shell height/diameter of the Patella spp on an exposed ...

All the limpets sampled will be taken from bare rock and not from rock pools. Limpets found in rock pools could have a different shell structure to limpets on the bare rock and could affect the results. The topography of the shores is roughly similar and so is not likely to significant difference.

1. ## An investigation into how beach material varies in shape and size up the beach.

Wave energy may also be important since in the more exposed areas of the cove the higher wave energy would tend to create a wider, flatter beach profile. This suggests that I was to find larger sediment at Transects A-B and E-F and smaller sediment at Transects C-D and G-H,

2. ## Describe and explain the features and processes associated with sea level change

These beaches are predominately found to be made of shingle due to its resistance, they are found to be elevated at intervals of 5m meters, the biggest raised beaches in the world are over 15m in height and are found in northern Scottish coast.

1. ## In this investigation, I will be making a comparison of the height and width ...

exposed limpets will need to be able to hold on tighter to the rocks to avoid being displaced by strong winds or waves; the shorter wider limpets will have a larger surface area of muscular foot in contact with the rock to provide a stronger grip.

2. ## Investigate the difference in density of limpets on a sheltered rocky shore and on ...

the organism has adapted by virtue of design to cope with stresses, i.e. a limpet has a conical shell which can dissipate energy. On most rocks surrounding the area of dale we find a deposition of spores called micro-algae which the limpets feed on.

• Over 160,000 pieces
of student written work
• Annotated by
experienced teachers
• Ideas and feedback to