Japanese Skinheads: The Meaning of a Subculture.
Japanese Skinheads: The Meaning of a Subculture by Dan Freire Society gives birth to culture, and culture gives birth to subcultures. ‘“Mass Culture” indicates culture as commodified and administered, pretargeted and produced for large numbers of consumers: the masses. “Popular culture” must be carefully distinguished from the culture industry’s productions, if the popular is to retain any critical force or resistant grass-roots connection to the “people.”’[3] The primal force behind many subcultures is the ability to not belong to mass culture, thus creating a sense of belonging, as one is part of something unique and particular. There is a resistance to mass culture within the skinhead subculture. Marginality has a power to create change. As long as these symbols are to be redefined and recreated by the subculture and not mass culture, the subculture will always exist. Although some subcultures are often the creative expression of cultural difference by marginal groups, the skinhead subculture is something completely unique, as many who find themselves immersed at age fifteen still have somewhat similar ideals at age thirty. Youth of the world find themselves immerged in many cultures, as an attempt to rebel. Plenitude is a strange and powerful virus. The contemporary Japanese skinhead subculture is a perfect example to the rest of the world’s subcultures, fostering unity as well as very influential musical groups and manipulating mass culture. It is impossible to mention skinheads without mentioning England. The youth subculture began in England, approximately in the late 1960s, just in time to counter act the hippie movement. The roots lie in the British modernist style of the 1960s, known as mods, they were stylish kids deeply into fashion and music, leading lives like that of a young Stephen Daedalus as they immersed themselves in drugs. Needless to say, the mod lifestyle soon became redefined by mass culture, and as the 1960s came to an end, so did many mod followings. Skinheads were a natural progression from the modernists in the sense that there occurred a schism in the mod movement before the inevitable downfall. The skinhead youth had a certain aspect of reality to them, they were more violent and more work oriented than the mods, did not dwell in drugs, and maintained a “clean” look. Fashion still played an important part within the subculture, as well as jargon. Notable differences in clothing included the usage of Levi jeans and Doctor Marten boots along with braces (suspenders). Although Doctor Marten boots may be the fashion staple of “individualists” today, at the time they were affordable boots used for a purpose as well as style. The early skinheads identified themselves with reggae music (the period from 1969-1973 in Reggae music is known as “Skinhead Reggae”). They also identified with violence in the soccer fields – a quintessential skinhead quote from a sixteen year old in 1970 goes, "[T]hese boots are just part of the uniform. They make us look hard." [1] As teens searched for identity and
respect, nearly every working and middle class teenager in Britain soon claimed to be a skinhead, giving some of its acceptance towards mass culture, contributing towards the fall. Gangs of skinheads as young as thirteen were found in abundance, especially in Glasgow, Scotland. Sadly, the first wave of skinheads met their fate as the 1970s approached; mostly due to the late mod fashion which caused the skinhead style to change and hairs to grow. Reggae also became oriented towards the freedom of Jamaica and Jah, losing its appeal towards white British youth. Skinheads were forgotten for nearly a decade, even ...
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respect, nearly every working and middle class teenager in Britain soon claimed to be a skinhead, giving some of its acceptance towards mass culture, contributing towards the fall. Gangs of skinheads as young as thirteen were found in abundance, especially in Glasgow, Scotland. Sadly, the first wave of skinheads met their fate as the 1970s approached; mostly due to the late mod fashion which caused the skinhead style to change and hairs to grow. Reggae also became oriented towards the freedom of Jamaica and Jah, losing its appeal towards white British youth. Skinheads were forgotten for nearly a decade, even the media seemed to forget the escapades by the kids. The skinhead subculture did not make a comeback until the late 1970s, mainly due to the punk explosion and the rebirth of ska (predecessor to reggae) which brought back the skinheads and also created a new identify for skinheads. These new skinheads were older in age, and identified with streetpunk, or what came to be known as the anthems of Oi! music. It is best described as a reaction against the plastic punk of the time and an actual account of the condition of working class England. Oi! literally means “hey and it is derived from “Oi polloi,” or “common people.”[1] If society has perceptions and expectations of the “other,” a person who is able to define oneself or to redefine what society has labeled them can find a certain power as the “other.” Being an outsider to society, a person is not expected to fit into the defined norm. Thus a marginalized person does not have to follow neither social obligations nor laws established by society. However, this poses a threat to society because the actions of the marginalized can challenge the norm or at least manipulate it for their own end. When the threat is too great, societies tend to either destroy the threat or absorb the challenge into the norm. Is skinhead a subculture in Japan? Is it marginal or has it been absorbed into the mainstream, thus submitting to the norm? It is in fact a subculture in Japan, due to their ability to re-define their own symbols. Japanese youth choose to define themselves as skinheads because they are able to adapt the music and style to their own ideals, since the mid 1980s, when the cult first became established in Japan. There are two types of skinheads to be found in Japan, those who constitute the “traditional” skinheads, and the SSS – Skinhead Samurai Spirit. The traditional skinheads have no political stance, they generally tend to listen to all sorts of music associated with skinheads and represent their subculture through style and a certain masonry. The SSS is the remnants of a once extremely nationalistic organization, but now it has just become a symbol for Japanese Skinhead pride, much the same way as skinhead crews exist in other countries. Because of its exclusive Japanese appeal, the SSS seems to be the natural choice for a Japanese skinhead; it creates a national identity within Japanese skinheads. A great amount of skinheads who join the SSS are traditional skinheads with loyalty similar to bushido to their skinhead scene. [5] However, a minority of the SSS still adheres to ultra nationalistic beliefs. Regardless of political differences, Japanese skinhead followings stress unity amongst the youth; unlike other followings, physical conflicts rarely ensue. The conspicuous appearance of the SSS may be due to its emergence in the 1980s, as the first skinhead group of Japan. At the time, western media portrayed skinheads as part of the neo-nazi movement, and although the earliest skinheads did not prescribe to that lifestyle, those immersed in mass culture did. In Japan, the image of a shaved head has different meanings than that of the western world. Monks have shaved heads. Japanese soldiers shaved their heads in WWII. Tokugawa criminals had shaved heads. High school baseball players shave their head. In Japan, the word sukinheddo refers to Japanese baseball players, so skinheads in Japan must describe themselves as sukinzu, equivalent to “skins.” Perhaps the reason why there is so much unity amongst Japanese skinheads is the simple fact that within Japanese society, there are no negative connotations if one identifies oneself as a skinhead, the cult has always been able to stay marginal. [3] Skinhead fashion. The closest way of identifying a skinhead presence is by looks. Japanese skinheads adhere to the standard skinhead style of clothing. Fred Perry (made by the late tennis great, pipings usually match team colors – reason why it became the skinhead “shirt of choice,” leaf laurel is logo) shirts are worn, as well as Ben Sherman (unique button up shirt with pleat and button on collar as well as a button on each sleeve) shirts and the occasional band T-shirt. Fred Perry polo shirts tend to be associated with skinheads in the United States (although I am pretty sure only skinheads know what a Fred Perry shirt is anyway), whereas in Japan they are commonplace. Other British jackets such as a Harrington (simple zip up jacket with tartan lining) and Crombie (reminiscent of 1930’s dress jackets) are worn, as well as Donkey jackets (button up jacket with PVC on shoulders). The most common “skinhead jacket,” however, is the American flight jacket; the SSS seems to be fond of black ones. Skinhead girls tend to wear the same apparel, but instead of Levi’ 501s, they chose skirts and fishnets. Of course, when looking smart, Japanese skinheads wear three button mod suits, as opposed to most contemporary American skinheads who seem to have lost their sense of fashion. [1] Boots are another important aspect of skinhead fashion. Most skinheads chose Doctor Martens boots as their footwear of choice. When dressing up, however, brogues are worn frequently. Not as many skinheads wear steel capped shoes as in the rest of the world, mainly due to the lack of violence in their Japan. There are four skinhead clothing stores in Tokyo, two in Nagoya, and two in Osaka. Fashion plays a very important part in being a skinhead, while at the same time it is not the sole meaning of being in the cult. Any person who simply adheres to skinhead fashion and style while claiming to be a skinhead without having a sense of camaraderie and friendship, as well as the will to stand up for friends, will soon be dismissed by others as a follower of mass culture. Illegal drugs have never been a part of the skinhead diet in Japan. Beer seems to be the preferred item of consumption, whether at shows or with friends. Some of the more nationalistic SSS members will even blame Japan’s “drug problem” on foreigners. Skinheads throughout the world tend to favor dark ale and British beer, while in Japan skinheads enjoy sake and wine. However, beer is still rather popular amongst the skinheads, as many find themselves with “ beer mates” at a bar on the weekends. [4] The last most defining aspect of Japanese skinheads is the music that they find identity with. Japanese skinheads are very knowledgeable about music. Their tastes range from old British rock, to punk (Japan has a healthy punk movement), to ska and Oi! The earliest Japanese Oi! band is Cobra. Cobra is regarded as one of the world’s best Oi! bands, giving influences for South American and European bands as the original wave of Oi! died out and it seemed to substitute it. Cobra never belonged to the SSS, although the band had no opposition towards it, the lack of schism between skinheads is one of the reasons why the Japanese skinhead culture is regarded as one of the most organized and prospering in the world. The contemporary Japanese bands stress unity in their works, as well as a disregard for mass cultural acceptance; the desire to remain marginal. An excerpt of a band’s writing (the band runs a record label in Japan): “Some people in the punk movement today have missed the whole idea. Any true punk or skin will tell you that punk has nothing to do with just having fun, or trying to keep up with this year’s fashions. Imitation and aiming for mass acceptance may be OK for fake punk rockers, but they will never be part of real punk. This label supports only true punks and skins.” [6] This is what keeps the cult alive – redefining itself as the commodification of “punk” in mass culture threatens to absorb the scene. The statement is also a unifying ideal that crosses national boundaries. Symbols to resist mass culture need to be created. The Japanese bands have their own ideas, their own ways of life and their own set of rules. Japanese Oi! has been making its way to the United States through Vulture Rock Records in New Mexico. All the Japanese releases by Vulture Rock have been sold out within two weeks of release. These include older Japanese Oi! bands in the release “Werewolfen: Japanese Samurai Compilation” which features mostly SSS bands with their aggressive musical style; and the more recent “Superyobs Vol.2: Japan vs. USA Kick Rock Competition,” which includes Japan’s finest skinhead bands of today. Both these compilations serve to give an insight Japan’s varied Oi! bands, as on the former compilation the bands focus on primarily Japanese related issues while on the former the skinhead cult is treated as a unified force throughout the world. [6] Since most Japanese releases in America are compilations, it is interesting to note different bands and their variations. The early 1990s have brought a revival to the skinhead scene throughout the world, and Japan has been the leader in doing so. The band Bad Vultures put out their first release in 1992, and since, many bands have gotten together in Japan and most noticeably in America, The Templars have brought about this feeling of revival. [6] [4] Bad Vultures prescribes to the original skinhead style of the early 1980s while producing some great skinhead anthems. They sing about real issues and are real people. They have real jobs and go to school. Along with the band Sideburns, Bad Vultures established a skinhead crew in Osaka, where live shows are frequently held. Both bands sing about escaping certain aspects of life, working, and “never giving in.” Some songs are in English; some songs are in Japanese. Regardless of that, the songs have meaning and are clearly understood by a foreign audience just as much as they are by a domestic audience. In America, such a revival did not take place until a few years ago, where Atlanta has been established as the Mecca of skinhead “hangouts” in 1996. However much unity amongst skinheads and other subculture kids may be stressed in Japan, finding skinheads is an arduous task, as they tend to belong to a very exclusive group. One must know what to look for when looking for other skinheads, beyond fashion and certain musical knowledge. A “marginal” youth culture in Tokyo is considered to be what one would frequently find in Harajuku. [5] The youth cultures found in many of those places represent mass culture’s ideal of the respective cultures. [7] This simply satisfies the youth subculture theory, something which skinheads do not do. Certain clubs in Tokyo will cater to skinhead music, such as those that have “London Night,” where old Britpop and rock is played. These clubs are reminiscent of the late 1970s England, as almost every subculture of that time will be present, one thing seems to lack – the police. [5] When asked, Japanese skinheads whose lifestyles are entrenched as an everyday identity will describe the youth at these clubs as “club,” or “fashion,” as they only dress the part on weekends. One of the few ways to meet skinheads in Tokyo is by going to live shows, and joining the bands and fans for drinks. [9] The role of the skinhead cult is a great one, it serves as a cross-national youth movement, and it also provides a sense of belonging, a sense of pride and the will to lead a progressive life. At the same time however, it shuns outsiders and mass culture as undesirable elements towards its progress. This may come as a nihilistic approach to life, but those who adhere to the skinhead way of life work or go to school all-day and only have a few who truly understand them, it serves as an extended family. Many will say that is all worth the hassle. Like everyone else in the world, skinheads have the right to think, believe and do whatever they want – as long as such actions don’t infringe on the right of others. For thirty years the skinhead culture has spread throughout the back streets of towns and cities throughout the world. No matter what mass culture states, the cult will never change to become part of it. They come and go, while the strong and true survive.
